FAQs products

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LIGNOLOC® wooden nails

LIGNOLOC® wooden nails are currently available in lengths of 38, 50, 55 and 60 mm and a diameter of 3.7 mm. Wooden nails with diameter 4,7 mm and 5,3 are currently available in length of 65, 75 and 90 mm.

In principle, yes. As described in Eurocode 5, table 8.2, attention must be paid to the density of the wood type when fastening wood using pin-shaped connectors. Only woods with a density less than 500 kg/m³ may be nailed without pre-drilling.

Yes. We recommend use of the FASCO® F44 LIGNOLOC®, a tool designed specifically to meet the requirements of the wooden nail. The larger opening in the feed mechanism and the guide flaps are important for a perfect shooting result.

The projecting end can simply be knocked off from the side with a hammer. LIGNOLOC® nails will always be inserted as deep as the wood structure permits. If you fire the nail into a knot, it is compressed in the same way as a metal nail. If the nail is not driven in completely, it can also be sanded down to achieve the best possible result.

Thanks to the impregnation and subsequent compression of the beechwood, wood-destroying basidiomycetes have no destructive effect on the LINGOLOC® nails. This characteristic has been confirmed in a long-term test conducted for us by the EPH wood technology development and test laboratory in Dresden. Beech is the most suitable type of wood, because it grows particularly straight and has a high density.

According to Eurocode 5, an edge distance of 26 mm and a distance of 55 mm from the end grain should be maintained in the case of woods with a density less than 500 kg/m² and a thickness no less than 26 mm. The spacing between nails should be 100 mm. If several nails are inserted in a row, they should be offset slightly to prevent the wood from splitting.

The primary material for LIGNOLOC® nails has been used for many decades, also in outdoor applications. Numerous examples of this are available.

According to the technical approval, the embedment depth in the head area must correspond to 4 times the nail diameter. As a result, the head draft is sufficiently dimensioned to absorb approved shear loads. A pure load on pulling out or pulling through is not permitted.

On August 28, 2020, the German Institute for Construction Engineering (Deutsches Institut für Bautechnik – DIBt) issued the “National technical approval / general construction technique permit” for “Load-bearing timber connections using LignoLoc® wooden nails”. After extensive tests and complex calculation models, all expectations of the expert committee were met.

The LIGNOLOC® wooden nail can be permanently loaded when sheared - as regulated in the approval.

For item 3.7 x 60 mm, roughly one trunk is required for 1,000,000 LIGNOLOC® nails.

Basically yes. When being driven in, other factors are more important (e.g. nail diameter, speed, ...). The material of the nail (steel, aluminum, wood, plastic, etc.) itself plays a minor role here.

No. If a LIGNOLOC® nail is set incorrectly, it can be processed without any problems (sawing, milling, drilling, grinding).

Where the steel nail bends, the wooden nail breaks. If a LIGNOLOC® nail should crush during processing, the parts, which stick in the wood, can be removed using woodworking tools (saw, drill, chisel).

The compressed beech wood is significantly more expensive than steel wire, which is used for the manufacture of steel nails. This fact as well as the highly specific and controlled production process for LIGNOLOC® nails lead to significantly higher costs and thus to higher prices.

The plastic sheet is state of the art and provides the opportunity of processing LIGNOLOC® without leaving any residue or waste. The plastic sheet can easily be recycled.

Yes. LIGNOLOC® can be driven in with a hammer. It should be noted that manually driven LIGNOLOC® nails do not have the same withdrawal values as LIGNOLOC® driven by a pneumatic nailer. When driven in manually, the heat and friction required for wood welding are not generated due to a too low speed.

No. The LIGNOLOC® nail itself is water-resistant. However, since the connection is created by components of the surrounding wood itself, its strength is reduced with increasing moisture.

Slight fluctuations in wood moisture, as is common with timber components of service class 1 and service class 2, have no adverse effects. Strongly fluctuating wood moisture levels can reduce the strength of the connection and should be avoided.

According to the current status, the following wood-based panels can be processed: OSB, MDF, plywood, solid wood panels, but also gypsum fiber panels (also in this case welding occurs, although it’s not a wood-based material) can be processed with LIGNOLOC®.

Depending on the nail dimension and the metal fastener to be compared, CO2 emissions can be up to 75% lower.

LIGNOLOC® nails barely react to most corrosive and acidic materials. This means that our wooden nails for instance are suitable for use in sauna areas or salt deposits.

Pre-drilling should only be necessary in exceptional cases such as with very short edge distances or with certain wood characteristics (strong twisted growth, density above 600 kg/m³). Pre-drilling should be done with a drill that corresponds to approx. 0.7 times the diameter of the nail.

On August 28, 2020, the German Institute for Construction Engineering (Deutsches Institut für Bautechnik – DIBt) issued the “National technical approval / general construction technique permit” for “Load-bearing timber connections using LignoLoc® wooden nails”. The European approval has already been applied and is in progress.

Applications that are permanently exposed to withdrawal forces e.g. suspended ceiling elements need a separate approval. The LIGNOLOC® nail does not have this approval yet. Furthermore a permanent connection cannot be achieved when used in green wood or construction wood with a high moisture content.

It always should be acted in accordance with current standards (e.g. DIN EN 1995-1-1 "Eurocode 5") and/or recognized rules of technology.

LIGNOLOC® wooden nails with head

LIGNOLOC® with head can be used as a substitute for façade screws. Horizontal and vertical cladding made of softwood can be fastened to wooden substructures with LIGNOLOC®.

As with metallic nails, damage to the LIGNOLOC® nail can occur if, for example, a very hard spot in the substructure is hit.

After removing the damaged nail and wood fiber residues, it is possible to pre-drill in the same place and insert a new nail with a hammer. However, the durability of this repair does not correspond to a shot LIGNOLOC®.

BECK offers a specialized setting tool in its FASCO® tool line for processing the nail. This tool has been optimized for error-free processing of the nails. Older models of the F60 series can be adapted for the processing of the LIGNOLOC® with head with a conversion kit from FASCO®.

The F60 nailer should be set by adjusting the air pressure and depth of the tool and by performing test shots on an inconspicuous area of the façade or on a mockup of the materials used. If this setting is maintained and the user applies uniform pressure to the façade, a uniform driving depth can be achieved. Large variations in wood density within the materials to be applied can lead to fluctuations which must be compensated for by readjustment.

In rare cases, slight splintering of the nail head may happen. These splinters do not affect the durability of the nail.


The word SCRAIL® is derived from the English terms screw and nail because SCRAIL® nail screws combine the advantages of both fasteners: quick processing, maximum holding power and full flexibility.

The main difference is that screws are screwed in, while SCRAIL® are shot. This results in an enormous time advantage.

The holding power of a SCRAIL® is around 80 % of that of a screw.

SCRAIL® can be used for most applications in which screws are usually utilized, such as terrace construction, facades, subfloors, garden furniture, fences, metal roofs and much more.

Yes, because SCRAIL® are also available in stainless steel quality A2 or A4.

No, hot-dip galvanizing is not possible, as the thread and the bit drive would otherwise stick. As an alternative that is at least equivalent, we offer our FasCoat® coating for all outdoor applications, except in environments containing chlorine or salt.

Clearly in the time advantage. SCRAIL® can be processed 8 times faster than bulk screws.

Yes, as most SCRAIL® are available with CE approval.

Yes, all common drive types such as Torx®, Phillips®, Pozi® or square are available for SCRAIL®.

SCRAIL® can be collated as plastic strips, coils in plastic strips, wire coils or plastic coils.

There are different thread types available, because different requirements often require different thread types. There are SCRAIL® with fine thread for best withdrawal values or SCRAIL® with coarse thread for optimal removability. There are also special SCRAIL® for light metal construction, decking or subfloors.

Most SCRAIL® can be processed with conventional pneumatic nailers, except for SCRAIL® ROOFLOC®, which can only be processed with the FASCO® ROOFLOC® tool.


The finish nails are either 15 gauge or 16 gauge. Brads are 18 gauge. Finish nails are the correct choice for fastening larger crown and baseboard trim, brad nails are used to install smaller trim to help prevent splitting and to promote a cleaner looking job with less touch-up work after the nailing is done.

The initial tool purchased by most customers is some kind of brad nailer to attach finishes. Heavier finish nails often split smaller mouldings, so brads are preferred for the small trim pieces, or also for the lighter-weight mouldings. Most folks who have used a hammer to drive small brads know how frustrating it can be when nails bend, and you can often ding the moulding easily with the hammer. The brad nailer makes these small trim jobs a breeze with high-quality results.

The brad nail also has a smaller head, which may not need to be concealed with carpenter‘s putty. When a nail is not puttied over, it‘s called a „shiner“. Sometimes a shiner is so small, it‘s difficult to be noticed. Brad nails leave such a small shiner, the putty touchup may not be necessary. Of course, it all depends on the application, or how easy it will be for people to see the surfaces that you have nailed.

The driven finish nail is almost always puttied over to conceal the shiner because it leaves a more visible hole in the wood surface. Again, for larger and heavier mouldings the finish nail is the correct fastener to use. The finish nail offers more support and withdrawal resistance than the brads making them a better choice for the bigger trim installation. Most finish carpenters have both a brad nailer for small mouldings, and a finish nailer for larger base or crown mouldings.

No, it is normal for some sparking to occur when the fastener is driven by the driver. This is due to the metal-to-metal contact of the nail and the driver, and this condition will be more obvious with new tools. Sparking tends to decrease with continued use, but the possibility is always there.

Two to three drops of oil each day is usually adequate. If the tool is used at a very high speed for long periods of time, add an additional two or three drops for the second half of the day. Over oiling will not damage tools, but may cause skipping problems due to clogged parts with the tools.

If the trigger valve leaks only when the trigger is actuated, the cause can be an internal leak at the head valve piston or at the trigger valve. The parts that are causes for this symptom are listed below from most common to least common:

  1. o-ring on the trigger stud
  2. o-ring on the outside diameter of the head valve piston
  3. head valve piston
  4. cylinder cap assembly

The parts that are causes for air leaks from the exhaust are listed below from most common to least common:

  1. o-ring on the inside diameter of the head valve piston
  2. o-ring on the outside diameter of the head valve piston
  3. Lower o-ring of the valve piston (cylinder seal)
  4. cap
  5. buffer above the valve piston

Most of the time, the tool simply needs a tune up. A tune up would consist of a cleaning and fresh lube applied, along with the installation of the appropriate o-rings and trigger valve assembly. These actions will greatly improve the cycle speed and energy of the tool. If a tune up does not solve the problem, some additional components should be checked:

  1. Spring at the valve piston
  2. Driver piston assembly -- check to see if the driver is not bent and if it is smoothly driven inside the nose channel
  3. Air pressure too low – check compressor level and performance

Most often when the tool is bending the nails over, it is due to a lack of driving power due to worn o-rings or a lack of lubrication. The best way to correct low driving power is to clean the interior of the tool, install the appropriate o-rings, using fresh o-ring lubricant. Other possible causes for nails bending are:

  1. driver -- it is expected that the driver shows obvious wear at the tip. If it looks OK, it probably is.
  2. driver piston assembly -- check to see if the driver threads have loosened in the piston.
  3. fasteners -- defective, wrong collating angles, wrong fastener for the application.
  4. air pressure too low

You must first understand the symptom. There are two separate failures that could cause a similar symptom description.

  1. The driver is fully extended from the nose and does not return upward at all, unless the air supply is disconnected from the tool. Check that the driver is straight and that there are no interefence inside the nose channel.
  2. The driver returns, but only partially, not enough to allow fasteners to advance. This usually suggests sluggishness, due to lack of lubricant, worn o-rings of the driver piston and bumpers. A complete rebuild with the appropriate parts would be the best option. Individual parts to be considered are:
  • lower o-ring of the cylinder
  • o-ring on the driver piston
  • bumper

When dealing with collated fasteners, factors such as collation angle and pitch of the fasteners can affect the tool’s ability to feed the fasteners properly. However, most of the time, it is an indication that the tool is sluggish and most likely just needs a tune up. A tune up means a complete cleaning and lube, along with the installation of the appropriate o-rings would solve most skip- ping problems due to lack of cycling speed. Addtional parts that can cause skipping that are not included in most o-ring are:

  1. bumpers
  2. pusher springs (strip nailers and staplers only)
  3. pusher assemblies (strip nailers and staplers only)
  4. check for proper magazine canister adjsutment. Example: magazine canister must be set at the corresponding nail length (for coil nailers only).
  5. feed paw and feed pawl springs (coil nailers only)

This can vary from tool to tool, depending upon design. Generally, a jam is a fastener that has collapsed and is lodged between the driver and the nose. This causes a lot of stress that must be relieved. There is nothing scientific about this process. Most jams can be cleared by pushing the driver back up into the tool. Safety first -- disconnect the tool from the air supply using a hammer and punch. Push the driver upwards and past the jammed fastener by placing the punch at the tip of the driver exposed out of the nose and tapping the hammer against the punch. NOTE: only strike the driver, as it is the hardest part. It is also the only moving part in that area. If you strike the jammed fastener, you may worsen the stress. Smaller tools, such as finish nailers, staplers, and brad nailers may have to be disassembled at the nose to relieve the jam.

Probably not. The problem is volume of air, not pressure. Restrictions in the air line will cause a pressure drop to occur as a tool is being used in a fast operation. As the pressure drop occurs, drive power is reduced and the fasteners will be driven in a staircase appearance. That is, the first fastener will be driven all the way in - the next fastener will be a little higher, with the next fastener being even higher. Make sure you have the proper air hose requirements. Air supply hoses should have a minimum working pressure rating of 10 bars (150 psi) or 150 percent of the maximum pressure produced in the air supply system, whichever is higher. A good quality air hose with a minimum inside diameter of 5/16” should be used. Air hoses should always be kept as short as possibile. A filer, regulator, and lubricator should always be included in the air system for proper operation. A filter will prevent excessive tool wear and corrosion by trapping pipe scale, dirt, solidified lubricants, oil, moisture, and other components. Moisture removal prevents frozen airlines when operating at low temperatures. The regulator is the most important requirement for proper tool operation and the correct air pressure for the job. If the tool is over pressured, tool wear is greatly increased. If the tool is under-pressured, it will not perform satisfactorily. Heavy-duty lubricants applied at the factory and/or lubricating during a routine maintenance check cannot be expected to remain in the tool indefinitely. Consequently, a line lubricator that injects an oil mist into the tool’s air supply becomes essential. Check fittings and airline for restrictions. Even the smaller compressors can support a burst of at least 10 - 15 nails before pressure is so significantly reduced to affect the drive energy. Restrictions can be moisture, ice, dirt buildup, or even fittings and airlines too small to support the tools' volume requirements.

Yes. Reducing air pressure to reduce the countersink of the nail produces irregular results. When the pressure is so low that the nailer does not drive the nail too far, it basically is not charged with enough air to function properly; it will then begin to skip or cycle irregularly. The best way to solve this problem is with some sort of depth control that can be used with normal air pressures. This depth control is usually an adjustment on the exterior of the tool. Most tools sold today have this feature added. Contact Fasco (fasco@beck-fastening.com) with your tool model number to find if a depth control accessory is available.

Consult your Operation and Maintenance Manual for the minimum to maximum ranges. Maximum ranges are also noted on the exterior of the tool for safety reasons. However, for best results and extended service life for your tools, always use the minimum amount of pressure necessary to drive the fastener properly. The amount of pressure required will vary greatly depending upon the density of the material being fastened and the length of the fastener.

Any water inside of the tools is a direct result of natural condensation that eventually settles in pools in compressor tanks and air hoses. The compressor tanks and air hoses should be drained daily for optimum performance, and even more frequently during cold or very humid conditions.

No. Water in the compressor tanks and hoses is a result of natural condensation that can then form into pools. The severity of the water buildup can vary greatly depending upon working conditions; specifically high humidity or cold temperatures. With humidity, the moist air passes through the pump, and the water will slowly collect at the bottom of the tanks. Cold temperatures are the most difficult. Cold air is drawn in through a very hot pump and heated. This hot air is then pumped through hundreds of feet of very cold hose to reach the tools. The result is excessive condensation inside the hoses that is carried on through the hose and settles in the air tools. During the downtime for the air tools, the water will pool in the low areas of the hose and freeze, causing severe airflow restrictions that will choke the tools. The water vapors that made it all the way to the air tool will freeze in the head valves and cause sluggish cycling. The compressor tanks and hoses should be drained several times per day in these conditions.

The best way is to use a blow tip. This is a tool that is normally used with air hoses to blow dust off tools and equipment; it offers a free flow of air when the trigger is actuated. To clear water, make sure the compressor is at a higher position than the hose by putting it up on saw horses or workbench. The hoses should be uncoiled; and if possible, run them downhill so that the blow tip attached to the end of the hose is at the lowest point. With the compressor plugged in, turn the switch on and be sure that it pumps up to maximum pressure. Leave the compressor switch on and open the blow tip by pulling the trigger and allow air to simply free flow through. Be sure that the blow tip is pointed away from anyone in the area and also away from any object that you do not want to stain. If there is a lot of water, it can spray excessively in the initial flow of air, and any sand, rust, or oil particles that are in the hose will come out with it. Continue the air flow until you are satisfied that all of the excess moisture is out of the hose. This procedure is especially important in colder conditions if the hose is to be stored outdoors or in cold conditions when not in use; pooling water will freeze solid, causing long delays in morning startups.

All compressors have drain valves at the bottom of the air tanks. These are used both for relieving pressure from the tanks at the end of the day, and to expel the water that builds up due to normal condensation. Allow the compressor to run up to top pressure and shut off automatically. In normal conditions, you may then shut the compressor switch off and open the drain valves. The air pressure that is released will carry excess water out of the tanks. (Note: Open these valves outside; as any rust or oil buildup will be expelled as well, and can cause staining to floors or carpets.) In extreme circumstances, where a lot of water has built up, leave the compressor switch on so that it will kick on and continue to pump pressure until the water stops draining. You may then turn the compressor switch off.

When pneumatic nailers and staplers become sluggish in colder weather, it is almost always as a result of moisture / water in the tools that can cause icing, especially in the head valve area. Outside temperatures as high as 0° Celsius can cause freezing conditions in the heads of the tools in high speed applications. There are on the market “winter” lubricants available. These lubricants are to be used to replace your everyday lubricant only during the colder months. These lubricants act like anti-freeze inside the nailer. Some of them are not even to be used in the air lines; they should be put directly into the air tool at the air fitting at the same rate as normal lubricating oil.

Airline or fuel line drying liquids are not recommended. Most of these commercial liquids can cause harm to the seals and bumpers in any pneumatic nailer or stapler. Anything that is put into the airlines will eventually get into the air tools and could cause expensive damage.

All air pressure to the hoses is controlled by the pressure regulator. On new compressors, the regulator may be shut off similar to a water faucet. To adjust the regulator to the desired pressure for your tool, turn the knob (usually red) clockwise to open and increase the pressure level. You should be able to see the pressure level increase on the gauge that is attached to the regulator. Certain models require the knob to be pulled up slightly to unlock the knob to allow adjustment. When the desired pressure is achieved, push the knob back down to lock it, so it cannot self-ad- just from normal vibration of the compressor. If the pressure regulator adjustment does not solve the problem, the regulator has failed and must be replaced.

This depends on the air consumption your tool has for each shot. Small staplers need 0.4 lt. per shot at 6 bars (90 psi), while big nailers require more than 2 litres. Of course also the cycle speed should be considered. Usually, a 25 lt. compressor for small tools and a 50 lt. compressor for the big nailers should be chosen. But another important aspect in a compressor is the power (HP). If the compressor has a big air tank but is equipped with a small engine, it has to be running most of the time, to reach the pressure level. On the contrary, a high-powered compressor requires less time to refill the tank again.

The typical size of staplers, bradders, finish nailers, and pinners that are used in the cabinet industry can be lubricated with as few as 2-3 drops of #10 weight non-detergent oil once or twice a day - if an “oiler” assembly is not already in use. Applying the drops of oil is done through the handle of the tool, where the male coupler (air inlet) is located. As a rule of thumb – it is advisable to perform an O-ring overhaul every six months for preventive maintenance. While lubrication is vital, WRONG LUBRICATION does more harm to the tool than no lubrication. Examples of misguided lubricant choices are: Marvel Mystery Oil (has a Ben-Gay smell), transmission fluid (has a sweet smell), WD 40, and pneumatic tool oils that were intended for rotary vane, automotive, and air impact tools. These INCORRECT oils are often the wrong viscosity and/ or are detergent-based with additives which can swell, dry, and crack O-rings. Additionally, they may actually wash out the factory installed grease lubrication that is good for the tool. A correctly lubricated tool can be identified with a very fine film of oil around the exhaust area. Inside the tool, the lubrication should be colourless.


ET&F® pins are recognized by the ICC Evaluation Service, Inc., IAPMO UES Evaluation Service, and several local or regional agencies. See ICC Reports ESR-2398, ESR-1777, ESR-1844, ESR-2290 and IAPMO Report ER-335 for details. Most local jurisdictions recognize these reports, but this needs to be verified by the responsible design professional on a specific project. ET&F® pins also have been recognized in reports from the Florida Building Product Commission. Contact us for to obtain copies of these reports.

On a one-to-one basis, screws usually offer greater holding strength than pins when withdrawal strength is measured.  This may not be true when pull over strength is compared, due to similar head diameters of the two fasteners.  However, for most applications, the installation of a few more pins than screws, allows the assembly made with pins to carry the same loads as an assembly built with screws. Installing more pins than screws can be easily justified due to significantly reduced labor to install pins.

Probably not. Screws and pins are different types of fasteners and have different allowable design values. Before making a change, we suggest a request for substitution be submitted to the responsible design professional. Using our code approved allowable load tables and the design loads on the project, the correct pin spacing can be calculated. ET&F Fastening Systems can provide submittal packages with a Request For Substitution form and design information to you for this process.

Yes, our AKN-100 series or AGS-100 series pins can be used to attach plywood panels to corrugated metal roof deck 22ga to 14ga thickness, subject to the design values shown IAPMO Report ER-335. Refer to Table 3 of the report for nominal withdrawal values for various combinations of plywood thickness and steel gauge. Although this table specifically refers to steel framing, the design values are also appropriate for use in comparable gauges of steel decking.

Using the allowable withdrawal values shown in this table and wind uplift loads for a specific project, the actual pin spacing can be calculated by the design professional. Select pins long enough to penetrate the valley of the corrugation. If pins are sized to only penetrate though the plywood and top of the corrugation, and the installer misplaces the pin and misses the top of the corrugation, the pin will not penetrate the steel as required.

Prior to finalizing the design, check if there is a requirement for the plywood to resist diaphragm shear load and if Factory Mutual Approval is required for fasteners used to attach the plywood deck.

Also confirm that fastener spacing provides adequate strength to meet APA minimum requirements for plywood panel installation to prevent panel buckling.

No. The maximum spacing of fasteners for plywood attachment should be 6 on center at supported edges and 12 on center at intermediate supports. Be sure to confirm maximum uplift values do not exceed allowable pin pullout values published in IAPMO ER-335. Also see the IAPMO and ICC Reports for horizontal diaphragm and shear wall values respectively.

A single flat strap, screwed to the stud, on the side of the stud to which the plywood is to be fastened can be used. The strap must be of the same gauge as the stud. It is not necessary to use a full section of stud or a second strap on the backside of the stud as blocking. A single strap is sufficient to provide the allowable shear values as shown in IAPMO ER-335 and ICC ESR-1777 for blocked diaphragms and shear walls. See applicable code for specific requirements.

The complete referenced ASTM standards are Standard C954, Standard Specifications for Steel Drill Screws for the Application of Gypsum Panel Products and ASTM C1002, Standard Specification for Self-Piercing Tapping Screws. These ASTM standards for screws specify such attributes as metallurgy, dimensions (e.g. head recess, major thread diameter), performance requirements (e.g. spin out/backout), and test methods (e.g. drill speed in rpm, driving pressure) SAE J78, Standard Specification for Self-Drill Tapping Screws specifies similar screw qualities. Our fasteners are not screws, are not installed by screws guns and as such, require a different metallurgy and heat treatment, do not have recessed heads for various drive styles, and do not utilize standard thread forms.

Our fasteners do however have ICC and IAPMO recognition for installing plywood, exterior gypsum sheathing, and DensGlass brands of sheathing to light gauge steel studs. Utilizing the design data published in ICC ES Reports ESR-2398 and ESR-1777 and IAPMO ER-335 in most cases, a project originally designed for screws can be redesigned utilizing pins.

Consider the installed cost of the fasteners. ET&F® pins can be installed at rates 5 to 10 times faster than screws. The labor savings costs more than offsets the higher material costs. ET&F offers a worksheet which allows you to calculate the cost savings of pins based on your specific labor rates. Contact ET&F Fastening Systems for a copy of this form.

We recommend that all ET&F® tools be used with 3/8 fittings. The tools may perform fine in 20 ga and 18 ga steel (Models 500A, 500M, 510A) or in low strength concrete (Aerico® 90) with 1/4 fittings. But, when more power is needed for thicker steel or higher strength concrete, 3/8 fittings are necessary.

No, it is not recommended. The large barrel of the Model 510A tool will allow the headed AKN-100 pins to drift as they are driven. This may cause the pins to not drive straight, particularly in the heavier gauges of steel. Only AGS-100 series pins are recommended for use in the Model 510A tool.

ET&F® products are sold through independent distributors throughout the United States and Canada. Contact us at etf@beck-fastening.com for a list of distributors in your area.

Terms of warranties vary by manufacture, and may or may not be effected by substrate attachment or the type of fastener. For example, manufactures of EIFS wall systems, exclude the substrate attachment from the scope of their work, so the substrate attachment is usually not in their warranty. Manufactures of other materials such as Georgia Pacifics DensGlass®, and James Hardies fiber cement siding do address fasteners in their warranty and do offer their standard warranties when ET&F® pins are used. The supplier providing the warranty for the project should be contacted directly for terms of their warranty.

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